Humpty Dumper

This past weekend delivered some pretty good size with occasional overhead sets. Seriously...there was one wave that jacked up inside where the guy riding it could have legitimately claimed a stand up barrel had he not dodged it at the last second (good decision as there was nowhere to go).

The tide was gigantic in the morning hours which softened things up enough to allow me the cajones to paddle out in to what would normally be surf that was beyond my comfort zone. Don't get me wrong, I was very particular about which waves I went for and made damn sure I was going to have a good chance at making it out to the shoulder before I committed. So I had a healthy amount of the pansy factor going on those three days. But I'm glad I challenged myself when it would've been very easy to move north a mile and cut the size in half.

The gnarliest aspect of the surf this weekend was the shore pound. Holy crap it was crazy. Getting your two feet on the sand after finishing your session without having a 3ft+ dumper exploding on you in ankle deep water was an exercise it tactical maneuvering. I'm still pulling sand out of my ears.