I think I put in a total of about 9 hours in the water this past weekend. Seeing as how I've been effectively out of the water for a few weeks (save 3 or 4 crappy sessions) it was nice to get my chops back. And I use the term "chops" very loosely here. I'm usually pretty tentative about surfing after it rains, but, we already had a good flush earlier and accumulated rain totals were barley over a tenth of an inch so I decided to roll the dice and get it while the getting was good.
I ended up pulling a double on Saturday, hitting it up at low tide for what was nothing short of a barrel fest for everyone out there. I typically shy away from barreling surf breaking in 2.5ft of water, but, I ended up sacking up, paddling out and having a good time. I pulled in to a few, but, didn't make it out of any. I'm OK with that. That may be a skill set I never develop, but, at 45 with only 8 years or so of surfing experience under my belt, I don't have an issue with that. I'm happy to just be there.
Funny...half the lineup at 4pm was the same faces you'd see at dawn patrol. I wonder if that's the norm?
Anyhoo...I'm surfed out and feeling pretty thankful I live so close to the beach. Things have changed a lot since I first started this blog. The kids are a bit older and the days of scheduling surf sessions to minimize familial impact are long gone. I've also noticed that my comfort zone has expanded quite a bit over these years. I think the past year or so surfing El Porto exclusively has had a large impact on what I'm willing to surf. Porto used to be my nemesis. Now it's my teacher.
I would change only one thing: I would like to tunnel through Grand Avenue. Man...that hill's a bitch!
4 Drop-Ins:
"Porto used to be my nemesis. Now it's my teacher." That is how I feel about Bolsa.. hahaha. I am a tad younger than you I will catch up to you in 2 months..and I have only been surfing 2 years and 4 months. Even though I have not surfed that long..and feel I have a LONG WAY TO GO.. I related a lot to the last part of this post. Just wished I lived closer to the beach..but if all goes as I plan after my youngest graduates high school..(she is a freshman).. I will be at the Beach! and I hope I will be WALKING distance with my board in hand!
awesome post whiffle boy!! glad you're back in the swing of things... i remember you had to move out of your el segundo home.. and then you kinda stopped posting. i am glad to see you're pulling double sessions. saturday was THE day, indeed!! welcome to winter :D
Thanks for the comments, you guys. Yeah we simply moved closer to the beach in Gundo. Can't really complain about that!
KK!!.. didn't I say something to you already about letting Autumn/Fall have it's season???.. STOP with the winter stuff..that is not till next month! ;-)
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