Goodbye, Summer.

Today was a classic Fall day. We've had some energy the past couple of days, but, this morning everything came together. Glassy, chest to shoulder high peaks everywhere with a gargantuan pushing tide. I got some nice drops. 

I even officially met the legendary "Wagner". Great guy. Great surfer. He's the kind of person you want in the lineup. Positive attitude and full of stoke.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Obama for the day off. You can come to Los Angeles and mess up traffic enough to keep me home any time, dude.