If I were a 20-something, I would've been out there this morning. There's plenty of light and probably some decent windswell to kick around in. However, this 40-something with a tweaked [but healing] back and slight bite from the crappy martini he made with cheap Gin the night before couldn't bring himself to roll out of bed when the 4:30am alarm went off. I checked the winds on the iPhone - calm - and gave my lower back the mental once-over. It's feeling a lot better but I felt I should give it another day of rest before putting it through the rigorous stresses of aquatic donkeydom.
Being a kook is hard on the body, btw. You think a squatty, stinkbug stance is easy? Think again, son. It takes effort to pull that shit off. Don't even get me started on the difficulties of turning without moving your upper body. Kookiness is all about core strength. And I have that in spades.
5 comments:
Wait a minute, you turn your board? How in the hell do you do that?!
I just go straight down the wave, real fast until the whitewash knocks me down.
serious stink-eye you giving that wave :-)
I have the stance of a Sumo wrestler.
Oh...and where the hell have you been Christian? Welcome back!
A wise man once said, "Never drink rail Gin".
Post a Comment