Yesterday, Surfrat, BBD and I trekked to LPB hoping to score some of this heftier swell. We were disappointed. First, the swell just wasn't showing much. There were some chest high sets - maybe a couple of larger ones - however, it wasn't consistent at all. It was actually worse than Friday was. We sat for minutes at a time waiting for something. Then the onslaught began. By 6:45am there were 18 people in the lineup. I snagged a couple off the point and eventually sentenced myself to the inside/middle. It was just too dangerous and frustrating. Going left off the point put you in a precarious position of having to be on the look out for folks going right off the middle section. With that many people packed in a tight space, that's just too gnarly.
I caught a couple of insiders that really didn't deliver much more than a drop and a turn before whomping into a shorepound. I paddled back over to Surfrat and BBD. We decided to bail and hit Zuma. It was just too crowded and frustrating. There must've been another dozen people in the lot ready to paddle out. Crazy.
So, to Zuma we went where we had the place to ourselves. All that were available were quick corners and an occasional shoulder to pump on. It's not my favorite type of wave, Zuma that is. It's got a reputation as a hollow beachbreak. However, on rare occasions like Sunday, when the size isn't much bigger than waist or chest high, dropping in to a closeout can be quite fun for me there. So, we salvaged the morning by slipping into to steep-walled, pitching tubes and dodging the infrequent head-high bombs out the back and getting worked here and there.
This morning, on the free cam at LPB, I counted 28 heads at 7:45am . That right there is a crime against nature. The picture above is of the parking lot. Remember, this is a pointbreak with about two workable spots to take off. You guys can have it. I'm staying dry.
