Aaaaaaah...

Today marked the opening session of my pre-work surf season - the time of year when there's enough light to hit it early and still have plenty of time to get to work. And it was good!

2-4ft clean, peaky windswell and probably a little SW thrown in the mix. It totally felt like Fall out there. The icing on the cake was getting 40th to myself for about a half hour. Just wave after wave.

Ronnie Jay made an appearance as well. I haven't seen him since I moved to Gundo.

Posting for the Postyness of it

I sort of wish this blog was limited to 140 characters. I'd actually keep it active if that were the case.

This morning a couple of guys were talking to me about CONS in the lineup and I had mixed feelings. On the one hand, I'm completely comfortable and OK with not having posted since December of last year. On the other, I've had this puppy since 2004. There's a lot of blood, sweat, tears, trials and tribulations in this baby so it's a little hard to look at it in its state of neglect.

I doubt anyone's listening at this point, but, maybe I'll give it a look every once in a while and post something - even if the posts are shorter than your typical El Porto ride.*

*Provided you are not Wagner who can somehow manage to pull a legit ride out of his ass in 2ft slop.

The Donkeyfication of the Morning

I pulled the swingshift this morning since my wife has LA Marathon training early and I got the kids. I biked down to Porto around 10:45am. There were still a few fun ones rolling through and it was pretty clean for the late morning. I gladly paddled out.

I had just put a quad setup on my White Diamond. I picked off a couple of decent ones and really liked the feel of running it as a quad. I even threw a bit of spray on a couple of turns so I was feeling pretty good 20 minutes in.

A right popped up and I paddled in to it. As I set up my bottom turn I saw a dude still paddling on the shoulder. I gave him a "hey hey!" and set up to do a top turn in his vicinity thinking he was going to back off. Um...yeah...that didn't happen.

As I made my turn up the face he's still looking like he's going to drop. I quickly cut my turn short and did a hard left and ended up taking the brunt of the lip. Unfortunately, Mr. Donkey did too little too late. If I'm too believe his "I'm sorry, I tried to pull off" explanation, then he must've attempted to pull off but ended up coming down the face/lip any way. 

I had already bailed at that point and, as I was underwater, I felt a jolt through my leash that was absolutely indicative of a board or body hitting my board. It was the former. Now I've got this nice hole to take care...

Fucker didn't even offer to help with the damages. Don't follow his lead, people. If you fuck up someone's board, offer to pay for it. It's the right thing to do.